This will be a disjointed "siege note". Much has happened in the past two days, I no longer have the energy to chronicle assaults, retaliations, reactions, diplomatic activity. official pronouncements, and so on. I also realize that these exsitential and angry dispatches that are meant to say: "I'm OK" and meant to help me overcome what is happening around me, are held by readers (especially in Israel) to surprisingly high expectations in journalism and reporting. An interesting community of facts-checkers has emerged south of Lebanon's south. They find my "reporting" deplorable and send corrections that conclude with profound philosopical interrogations on who do I think I am, what I want from life, and if I am ready for a serious dialogue with the "other". I am not a reporter, nor do I ever wish to be. I am not interested in dialogue with Israelis and don't foresee that in the horizon of this conflict I will. I should have take the advice of my anti-Zionist Israeli friends and never even acknowledged the reactions to my emails south of my south.
Although the "evacuations" have provided the cover for some sort of a calm, there was nonetheless enough shelling in the past two days to cause grief and wretchedness (deaths, injuries and serious damage). Israel attempted several times to proceed with ground invasion but failed. Some reports claim that Hezbollah made incursions into Israeli territory! This is significant only in the sense that so far, Hassan Nasrallah seems to be the more calm, realistic and pragmatic interlocutor, while the various figures from the Israeli military as well as Minister of Defense seem to be drawing erroneous conclusions, make the wrong calculations and convey unrealistic expectations. In fact, the Israeli military is beginning to behave publically like the American military.
Finally the German and US governments were able to evacuate their passport holders (I no longer dare to say their "nationals" since classes of citizenship seem to be the rule) trapped in the south. People were shuttled in busses on circuitous roads from various points in the South under the cover of a lull iin shelling. That lull allowed red coss ambulances to bring some of the very seriously injured to hospitals further from the zones of heavy shelling. It also allowed the cameras of journalists to travel and record the toll of shelling on border towns and villages or Israel's recurring targets.
>From tending to the injured but also packing the bodies of the slain, emeregncy rescue workers, doctors as well as photojournalists and camera men have all unanimously reported how unfamiliar Israel's weaponry is. Bodies are disintegrating in unfamiliar ways or so seems to be a unanimous observation. I actually plan to send a file to Shobak and ElectronicLebanon.net to post a set of photos. They are really gruesome, but they have to be made public. Rescue workers and doctors are urging forensic experts to try to find out what the exploding shells are made of or what have they been "reinforced" with.
"Cruise beyond your dreams" read posters pasted on the walls of the huge air-conditioned tent that functions as the final stage in processing the evacuees before they board the ship. The ship, as if someone wanted to amuse Edward Said for a brief minute, is called Orient Queen. It is part of a Lebanese-owned fleet of commercial cruises, AMC (Abu Merhi Cruises) and contracted by the US embassy to shlep American passport holders to Cyprus. Holders of American passports stranded in the south were shuttled by busses earlier that day to the port of Beirut. They were greeted by US embassy personnel, a small contingent of US Marines and Orient Queen crew. The buses were parked on the dock and passengers waited their turn for long hours to be searched, have their stuff searched their papers processed and then onto the ship.
The platoon or brigade or whatever the appropriate word is for the group of US Marines landed in Beirut some twenty years after the bombing of their base in 1983. In fact, to a renowned American journalist, they revealed that they were known as "the Beirut platoon", or contigent or company... This twenty some years "return" of the Marines was presented as a big "to do" everybody had high emotions about it. Its significance escaped me. So what? They were going to be here for 2 days to evacuate American passport holders and then they went back to their lives. Their lives? As it turns out they were to return to Jordan where they were training the Jordanian army. (Ooops, that was not supposed to be said. Delete it from the record.)
The marines were curteous in the manner that army personnel is trained to be curteous. Their coordination with the Orient Queen staff would have made sense only if it were a Monty Python filmscript. Some very very funny movie with prophetic visions of social and politcal horror to come. The Orient Queen has apparently a special brigade of Rio Brazil Dancers. I refrained from saying go-go, but the way they wiggled their hips and tied their yellow T-shirts to "celebrate their bodies" was all about go-go.
There is a famous story amongst trade unionists in the New York-New Jersey about a solidarity between teamsters and airline attendants during the Reagan administration and teamsters supporting airline attendants during protests. Fearing the teamsters' homophobic proclivities, the trade unionist that drove the truckdrivers to the site of the protest had the wisdom to rent a bus with a VCR and bring along the only two "choices" that might pacifiy his constituency: "The Godfather" or porn. Porn did it. By the time the teamsters had reached New York, they were pacified. I recount this story because the only way to describe the chemistry between Brazil-Go-Go dancers and US Marines is to evoke that story.
The moment you come across a member of the US embassy personnel they correct you, "it'a assisted departure, not evacuation". They explain that it's how they manage the feelings of the Lebanese. Evacuation seems too terminal, too definitive and only those who choose to leave, do. No one is forcing anyone to leave. True. But evacuees are almost all in a state of shock. They were trapped in the south under the unrelenting shells of Israel's campaign. Most testify that the arsenal of weaponry is entirely new, unfamiliar, a lot more frightening. Rumors claim that the evacuation fee on the cruise ship is up to 5,000$/person. The US government provides loans to those who cannot afford to pay upfront.
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